First crop: rhubarb aroma in perfumes
Perfumers are constantly looking for new ingredients. Our permanent expert Oksana Zaitseva recalled one of them when she was making jam. it is, of course, about rhubarb.
Oksana Zaitseva, perfume expert, collector of vintage aromas of the Soviet period
The long red stems of this fruit and vegetable (there is still debate about which category rhubarb belongs to), cut into pieces, mix well with spices that enhance its original flavor … Rhubarb jam with ginger or fruit is especially useful in the fall, when we start to mourn and get bored in the sun.
A unique plant that you can not only eat, but also "listen"! If you are near the place where rhubarb grows, be sure to try to breathe in the aroma that comes from its broken stems.
Fresh, rhubarb is a wonderful natural composition – fresh and at the same time sweet, with a pleasant acidity and echoes of red berries. Such multi-sounding brands, of course, could not be ignored.
No matter how sad it may sound, it is impossible to obtain rhubarb essential oil, its smell can be found only through a combination of other components. There are purely synthetic analogues, which, by the way, were already used in the second half of the 20th century (for example, in the perfume of Miss Dior, Dior, 1947 and Ma Griffe, Carven, 1946). Flower-gourmet, oriental-fruit, “green” – in many modern compositions rhubarb plays a key role.
In 2019, there was another surge in interest in rhubarb in perfumery. After all, it is so multifaceted that it gives perfumers the opportunity to play as they please. Dull or sweet, flirty or pungent – this component allows you to create an exotic cocktail with a great balance of textures and taste sensations, cool in the summer heat and wrap it in a warm embrace on long winter evenings.
The new Fun, Azzaro, embodies one of the most successful combinations of rhubarb with black currant. When applied to the skin, the fragrance fills you with joy, lightness and inspiration. The same combination of notes is interpreted differently in the fragrance DKNY Women Summer 2019, Donna Karan. Here, white-flowered chords (jasmine and freesia) make the composition attractive, adding a rhubarb of sophistication.
Aromatic and fruity Fabulous Me, Paco Rabanne, has yet to be appreciated by many. It shows the "journey" of rhubarb from a cheerful pumpkin to a mundane, but self-aware sandalwood.
The chypre-floral Amor Amor Electric Kiss, Cacharel, will also find its fans, because it combines rhubarb with his favorite companions – spices and floral chords.
Imagine, Guerlain, brings us back to the green school theme of the new school. In my perception, this is herbal tea with bergamot and grapefruit, brewed, but not fired. A moment after spraying, violet and rose are already heard. A passing whiff of the wind – and all the notes merge into a delicate cloud, which opens up a huge scope in movement and dreams.
In a good company
Of course, someone may not recognize rhubarb as a solo chord because of its sour aftertaste. But we can not ignore the fact that, along with other components (apple, grapefruit, rose, patchouli, vetiver, mint), rhubarb opens up a huge number of opportunities for creativity. Therefore, this small flaw can be forgiven him.